By Charles Baran
An interesting thing happens to me every April in Florida, when the afternoons grow longer and the early evening Atlantic trade winds blow warmer. I get a hankering to hop in my Mustang and drive US1 from my Palm Aire home down the Florida Keys to Key West. To me, there is nothing as peaceful or as viscerally satisfying as strolling the bougainvillea-covered streets of Old Town with my husband under a balmy Key West sky after having had a delicious gourmet dinner at one of the many fine restaurants along the action-packed thoroughfare, Duval Street. Once a year, if only for a weekend, I need to get my fix.
The drive, just under 200 miles from the Wilton Manors / Fort Lauderdale area, is not as tedious as one might expect. If you are a fan of nautical scenery, as I am, it’s quite beautiful, breathtaking actually, especially if you make the drive while the sun is setting over the turquoise sailboat-dotted water shimmering off the 7-mile bridge (mile marker 153). When you reach Big Coppitt Key (mile marker 188), you’re almost there.
This year’s excursion to Key West was a bit extra for me as we were staying at the Bishop on Fleming Street. Formerly named the Equator, the newly christened Bishop is a lovely property that retains the guesthouse feel while offering the amenities of a 4-star hotel. Two pools, a hot tub, daily happy hour at the poolside bar, and an extremely friendly and helpful staff make staying there a pleasure. No longer an exclusively all-male clothing optional resort, the Bishop remains LGBTQ friendly and the mixed crowd we met during our stay was low-key and pleasant. Our room, toward the rear of the property, was quiet and spacious, two factors we appreciated as we tend to enjoy hanging out in our room with a good book. From the moment we arrived we felt relaxed and pampered. We’d definitely stay there again.
While in Key West, I also planned on visiting a few of the establishments that I had known back in the early 80’s when I lived and worked on the island. Dinner on our first night in town was at Antonia’s. Known for its exquisite dining room bathed in rich wood tones and comfy, teal-cushioned banquettes, and equally well-known for its spectacular homemade pasta dishes, Antonia’s has been a Key West landmark since 1979 when it opened its doors at the current, and still original, Duval Street location. The Chilean Sea Bass Piccata was exemplary, as were the Goat Cheese Souffle appetizer and my husband’s Fettuccine Prosciutto di Parma. Make a reservation. Antonia’s continues to be a popular destination.
The next evening was a really special one for me. In the early half of 1981, I was a busboy at La Terraza de Marti, today known officially as La Te Da; a guesthouse, restaurant, and nightclub located towards the southern end of Duval Street, a few short blocks from the famous “Southernmost Point Buoy.” La Te Da, I was happy to find out, was still home to the famous Sunday afternoon Tea Dance, where, back in ’81, after my busboy shift, I’d boogie with the likes of Holly Woodlawn and Vogue makeup artist Way Bandy, while Tennessee Williams sipped cocktails with Leonard Bernstein on the upper balcony overlooking the dancefloor. For my April 2025 return, I requested a table for two alongside the pool, a must if you are planning to dine there as the pristine tropical landscaping and romantically-lit water add to the vibe. Our server, while a bit younger than myself, had worked at La Te Da for many years and was most enthusiastic about being a part of our wonderful Key West experience. He steered us in the right direction for a delicious al fresco feast; Grilled Asparagus au Gratin, Spaghettini di Pomodoro and a wonderful Shrimp Scampi. After dinner, we headed upstairs to catch the Randy Roberts Show. Randy has held court in the cabaret room since 1998, performing as Cher, Bette Midler and Liza Minnelli. He ends each show with a half hour of just “Randy.” Flawlessly made-up and wearing a glamourous gown, he treated the audience to pop tunes and show tunes in his own marvelous voice. Unlike many drag performers, Randy sings every song, whether as one of the three divas or himself. His musical arrangements and projections are superlative. You will definitely need a reservation. Every seat in the house was taken.
If it’s art you are interested in, make sure to visit The Studios of Key West on Eaton Street. The bright and airy first-floor gallery always features a top-notch artist and smaller exhibits line the hallways of the upper floors. The weekend we were there, I fell in love with the mixed-media work of abstract expressionist Gerson Fogaca. After viewing the exhibit, and before heading back home, we had lunch with local Key West artist Pam Hobbs. Pam has been a mainstay of the Duval Street art gallery scene practically since I met her in 1981. Her colorful paintings delight viewers with whimsical depictions of Key West architecture and star-filled skies. Many, if not all, of her paintings feature a rooster or two. Roosters are to Key West what pigeons are to Boston, they’re everywhere, even the trees. Pam took us to a charming laid-back spot called The Café on Southard Street for an easy and delicious lunch. Plenty of unique Vegan, Vegetarian, and Pescatarian options are offered in an atmosphere reminiscent of the Key West I knew in 1981. Being an advocate of healthy eating, I found each item we ordered perfectly prepared with the freshest ingredients and seasoned to perfection. The Café is a hangout for locals, so if you want to feel like you live in Key West, make sure you check it out.
Alas, when it was time to say goodbye to the staff at the Bishop, my friend Pam, all the roosters, and the purple bougainvillea, I had a lump in my throat. I always hate to leave Key West, but know, come next April, I’ll be back.
